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Ferrari 330 P4 was a development of the 1966 P3 with an enlarged engine capacity
of 3989c.c. With three valve cylinder heads as opposed to two valves it was capable
of pumping out 450 b.h.p. The P4 also featured a wider front and rear track to
improve handling, and following an early season dispute with Firestone ran with
Dunlop tyres for most of the 1967 World Sport car championships.
The revised machine scored a highly impressive 1-2-3 at its first race the Daytona
24 hours with Amon/Bandini leading home the sister cars of Parkes/Scarfiotti,
and Rodriguez/Guichet crossing the line in three abreast formation in response
to the Fords at the previous years running of Le Mans. Missing the Sebring 12
hours the works Ferraris won again at the Monza 1000 KM race with the same crews
finishing 1-2 as they had done in Daytona. The stage was set for the smaller capacity
but more nimble Ferraris to challenge the new 7 litre Fords at Le Mans, but as
the Americans say there’s no substitute for Cubic Inches and the Gurney/Foyt
Ford led home the Scarfiotti/Parkes and Mairesse/Beurleys P4’s in second
and third places. Following this disappointment Enzo withdrew from sports car
racing in 1968 to concentrate on Formula One not returning to the arena until
1970 but by now the ageing P4 had been replaced by the 512.
World classics has chosen the P4 as its second release offering the option
by use of transfers of the second or third placed cars at Daytona. These were
both coupe versions with a full roof, while the winning car had an open top. As
with the previous release from this new company the Ferrari comes in kit form
(I assume they’ll offer a ready to run version). The main body shell is
in resin, with lexan windows, and light covers, small front and rear light pieces
(The rear’s are pre-coloured red) a driver figure in authentic 60’s
style helmet, and small plastic tube to make the four rear exhaust from. Running
gear was provided by Sean and comprises an MRRC Ferrari 250 Chassis, MRRC front
& rear axles, Fly Ferrari 512 wheels and tyres, and MRRC guide and a Mabuchi
motor. You can fit an MRRC magnet as well but I always think this type of classic
should be allowed to drift and slide out of corners, and so cut some small pieces
of lead to fit in the magnet positions of the chassis.
As
normal before priming and painting a dry fit is done to ensure the wheel base
and track are o.k. and that the wheels don’t foul the wheel arches. The
back axle is about 3mm too long and had to be cut to ensure the tyres don’t
protrude beyond the wheel arch flares, the front is if anything just a tad too
short but will suffice. Trim the window glass and the interior piece to size and
slip them inside the shell, then position the chassis in place and hold it with
tape to enable you to drill the mounting holes on the body shell. (I use Fly body
screws). The body shell did not require any filling, and only a light rubbing
down with some fine wet ‘n’ dry paper before spraying. I used plasticote
grey primer, followed by two coats of plasticote insignia red spray. (I normally
do three coats and have paid the price by scraping the paint off the rear spoiler
against the track barriers – important tip don’t cut corners when
painting).
Detail the light surrounds, interior, intakes, grilles, and driver before
reassembling the body onto the chassis. Once done fit the headlights, lenses,
rear lights, and exhaust stubs using a little clear epoxy and allow to dry. Last
choose your colour scheme the 24 car of Scarfiotti/Parkes or the 21 car of Rodriguez/Guichet.
And apply the appropriate decals following the picture on the instruction sheet
for guidance.(I went for number 24). Finally apply a thin coat of clear lacquer
to seal the transfers.
The
final result is pretty good bearing in mind this is not to the standard and certainly
not the price of the Racer versions of this car, and with a relatively inexpensive
set of running gear it turns in a reasonable on track performance, with lovely
power slides but enough weight in the shell to keep it firmly on the track without
needing a magnet. I know I’ve said this over and over but resin kits will
never be considered serious racers car because most collectors put too much effort
into building them to risk damage in club competitions. The world classics Ferrari
P4 however is reasonable enough to build one for collecting and one to race, and
with a slot-it or MRRC red motor and some slick rear tyres could be turned into
a startlingly good performer.
Any negatives well yes to be honest the roof line should be a little more bulbous
and the whole of the nose is turns up slightly at the front, which means there
is an excessive gap between the front tyres and the wheel arches, particularly
as the rears fit the arches so well. (Although in defence of World Classics this
one was a pre-production prototype and it may be that they’ve altered the
mould slightly on the production version – either way it’s only a
minor flaw). That aside this is another good effort with the whole assembly process
being pretty straight forward for even the most inexperienced kit builder, the
parts to complete should be pretty cheap, and the decals provided are of a very
good quality. (Some one listened to my comments about the BMW’s decals).
The car performs well on the track with no nasty vices, and certainly looks pretty
enough to adorn the shelves of most discerning collectors. Overall I’d say
this kit certainly is well worth trying, and full marks to World Classics for
offering another sought after model at a reasonable price.
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